Originally today I was going to head to Sappong (aka Pang Mapha) via a dirt track north of Pai that goes through some small villages (Huai Chang Tao, Muang Noi, Ae Ko, Huai Hang) then via Ban Tham to Sappong.
But after my first attempt on dirt, I decide to delay that trip and instead get some more experience on dirt. So I had a look at GT Map and decided to try head to Mae Laep, South West of Pai. This time with only my CamelBak and a small day pack with water, tools and a first aid kit.
I turn on the road marks on the GT Rider map, which shows only one road from here to the village. It quickly proves there a number of roads that all look equal in quality. I head left at one of the intersections, and end up at a dead end.
I turn back and take the right road this time, and end up at lake marked on the Pai Environs part of the GT rider map.
Two guys ride past with rifles, and turn up a small track.
I keep going past the lake to see where it will take me. The road forks, I go left. The road/tracks end at a hut, after going over some trickling streams.
The all over the place in the country,I assume that it's for people to rest under when they have been working in the fields/farms/etc.
I look around a find two ways to go, one goes down steeply into the creek then up the other side steeply but with big rocks in the way. I decide to skip that. The other way to follow is a single track into the forrest. I follow that about 30 meters before it becomes steep without anywhere to turn around. After my last attempt at something similar I decide to turn the bike around and head back.
I follow the track back to where I had chosen to go left, and go right this time.
It ends at another hut, this time I park the bike under, and take a short break.
Now I head back, and this time head to the lake. There are about 10 people fishing, some boats that look like foot paddle boats for tourists and a small stall. I take some photos, buy some chips which I don't like so the lucky limping dog gets them. Then decide to head back toward Pai and go somewhere else instead.
I stop at a petrol station. My riding on dirt is getting better, I am getting more confident(again) and taking things faster. From what I've read, it's often better to go faster than you think. Being a bike on two wheels, the faster you go, the more stable the bike.
I decide to try checkout a waterfall called Mae Yen marked on the GT map. There is no road marked to the waterfall, so I just ride to where the road on the map ends, then keep riding. I cross a few more streams, these are about 2 meters wide and 5-10 centimeters deep. First time I've ridden through water, and it's a bit of fun. Having the water splash up and wet my boots/legs.
I reach an area where there is a bambo bridge, under the bridge is about a 4 meter drop. I walk onto and over the bridge and it creeks and sinks a bit.
I decide not to ride the bike over it, and look for another way up. I find a way up, but going down would be a balancing act with no where to put my feet down should I slip as stream on the right side, and bush on the left. I decide it'd be a bad idea to try ride, and I am not really going anywhere. So I turn around and head back.
This time I head to Tha Pai hotsprings. It's pavement the entire way.
As I head out to Tha Pai I pass a bunch of elephant camps. The elephants are on the side of the road, chained up so they can only take a few steps.
I stop to take a photo of the elephant camp recommended by the rough guide.
Personally it amounts to torture in my opinion, and we should not be encouraging it, it's just wrong. What would westerners think if in Australia, we locked up kangaroos in a tiny cage, and the only time they could come out is when an Asian tourist came to feed it, and maybe 'walk' it around for 30minutes. We shouldn't be doing this to wild animals, they are used to roaming. Locking them up, is fucked up.
While I am on the topic of Westerners encouraging bad behaviour...
If you were in a western country (bar the USA) it's required by law that you where a helmet, why? Because if you're involved in an accident it saves your life. So why is it when Westerner's come to Asia, suddenly they think it's ok to ride without a helmet. I have seen hundreds of Westerner's on scooters, and can count on one hand the amount wearing helmets.
Yes most of the locals don't wear helmets, but that doesn't mean westerners shouldn't wear helmets, almost all rental places will give you a free helmet.
Motorcycle accidents are a major cause of death for SE Asians, and when kids see westerners not wearing helmets, it encourages them not to wear helmets either. Not to mention how many tourist die or a seriously injured in accidents in SEA. Wear a helmet people! Its not hard, you don't even have to take it with you, just leave it on the bike when you park!
And yes, as a very minimum I have my helmet and gloves on, even if I am just riding 500 meters down the street. If it's not worth the effort of putting on the gear, then walk!
Back on topic. I reach the hot springs, and it looks boring. I though there was meant to be a gaiser but I don't see any evidence of one. So again I choose a new destination.
This time I had to Mo Paeng waterfall, I find the road in the GPS. Hit 'goto' and set off.
The waterfall is nice, with a pool at the bottom. But being dry season, these isn't much flow. There are many thai's at the waterfall, there is one group of 4 westerners sitting at the waters edge. Some of the teens are sliding down the rock face and into the water. I decide, what the heck when in rome. Plus my motocross pants are meant to be able to survive sliding down tarmac. So I take off everything except the MX pants, and head up to where the kids are.
None of the kids speak any English, or at least wont say anything to me. I say a few things in English and make some hand signals. A couple of them point at me, and then down the rock face. So I get in line, and slide down. Fun!
I climb back up, and get mainly un-interested teens with 2 of them giving me the thumbs up. I try to talk to them more, but they aren't interested. I have another go. Climb back up, and try one last time to talk to them. But again they're not interested. So un-interested in fact, they get up and leave. Great! I scared them away. So much for the land of the golden smile.
Althought I have a theory. It is the off-season and Pai already had more westerners than Thai. I overheard a ex-pat say that about 15% of the rooms are taken at the moment and during peak season you have to book ahead. So the place would be packed to the brim with westerners. These kids probably want to get away from tourists, not have them come and join in!
I go down a final time, then lay on the rocks to dry myself out.
Now I choose a new place to go, I decide to check out the route I am going to go tomorrow. I look in my GPS, and surprisingly find what appears to be the start of the road I want to head down. I hit 'goto' and set off.
I reach the dirt road, and follow it along. I'm getting more confident, and sliding the tail around a little. Feels awesome, can't do that on a street bike. I'm getting good with my speed going on flats and going up hill. But I am still worried when going down hill that if I got fast I'll hit a corner at the end, and either A) Go off the track B)Hit the brakes too hard and slide C) Have to corner too hard and the bike slides out.
I reach the end of the road. Straight in a thin single track with a drop on the right hand side. On the right there is a little bride made out of a few logs over a 1m high stream. I ride over the bridge, and go down a petty steep and slippy down hill. And end up at the Pai river.
There is no road across the river, or on the other side. Although I am sure a better ride could ride across but since there is nothing over there as far as I can. I stop to take a photo and look at the map. The GPS says I am in the right place, and the road keeps going. Not as far as I can tell.
Some Thai's in hammocks under some trees call out in English. I take them over the map and try explain where I am trying to get, and they point me back the direction I came from.
I am not game to try the single track, incase I slip to the right and the bike gets stuck a meter into the ground. So I head back up to the little bridge. I got up the steep bank, that is sandy and rock and the back wheels kicks up a lot of dust. I get near the top and get stuck as the bike isn't in line for the bridge, and I can't really go backward and it's way too steep to go backward. So I wrester the bike, sliding back a bit, then revving the engine and going forward with dirt going everywhere. Eventually I get it lined up and get across. When I cross I can see the Thai's are on the way over. To help at the guy on the big dirt bike, without the MX gear who can't cross a silly bridge. I give them the thumbs up and head off.
I take another direction on the dirt road, that gets me across the other side of the Pai river, but it just ends at a gate to a farm. So I decide to head back to Pai passing green fields on the way.
You get a lot of looks being dressed up like I am. While 80% of Thais have no helmet, and 99% of Westerners. When I ride past one on a 250cc Dirt bike, wearing knee armour, body armour, helmet, goggles, gloves and MX top and pants on a paved road. I am sure they must think this is something wrong with me! Although when they end up with serious injuries in hospital, while all I have in a tear in my top and needing a new helmet, they may change there minds.
I arrive to my new hostel at TTK and am greeted by a new friend in my room.
I take a walk around town, buy some supplies, have dinner, go to the net cafe, do some writing up and get to bed at midnight. Tomorrow is a big day trying to get to Sappong via dirt. But this time I'll stick to the main trails and if I feel it's getting too hard I'll turn around and head back to Pai. Going on the highway to Sappong will take no time at all.
GPS Map - Click the link to see in the map in full, and see where photos were taken:
Day 5 - Around Pai on Dirt at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day5#
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
Day 4 - Tarmac to Pai
I head off at about 10am on the highway to Pai, it's tarmac the whole way, lots of twist and turns, should be a fun and easy ride.
I follow the highway, and eventually see a sign that says Pai. It's not on my GPS, but I decide to take it anyway. It appears to be a short cut / by pass. Whatever it was it was nice smooth flat road, without a single car or bike. So I test out the top speed of the bike, and hit about 120kph.
Speaking of speed, I still have no idea what the speed limits are anywhere. I generally just go either as fast as I feel comfortable under 90kph, or at the speed of the faster cars.
Heading toward the mountains I pass a few fields and stop to take a photo.
I finally hit the twisty bits and it's fun. The roads are in good condition, there is little traffic. I am still scared about leaning the bike to far, but I take the corners faster this time. Only issue I run into is some Thai truck driver who thinks he's in America. He was driving on the wrong side of the road competely, no idea why. And he didn't try to move outta the way either. I had to quickly move over to the shoulder to avoid getting flattened. Made my heart race!
Most of the cars on the road are utes, seems to be a good choice for the local Thais. They can load their scooters in the back, and when they have to transport people they just sit in the back too. It seems like 80+% of the cars out here at utes, 10% are 4wd's and the rest are a mix. There are also a lot of expensive looking utes/4wds.
I reach a lake by the side of the road, and again stop for some photos. There are some locals fishing, just throwing a line with a hook and some meat into the lake. And some expensive looking houses on the other side of the lake.
On the mountain side of the road, there are tracks up the mountain. Dunno if they still get used, but that's some real 4wd'ing to get up there! From what I can tell, they are from trucks who were installing the power lines. (This was one of easy/tame tracks)
There are also a lot of small trails heading off to the bush, would be great to explore if you had a couple people with you. Maybe next time.
After taking the photo of the track, I realise my sandles were too close to the exhuast and have melted. Smart Rowan.
I hit the real mountainous section now, similar to the clyde (for those who live in Canberra) but a lot longer and with heaps if hairpin corners. The road is in decent (minor pot holes, bumps in the road) to very good. The road is pretty empty, although the occasional farm animal will be in the middle or on the side of the road.
I get stuck behind trucks/utes sometimes, and have to wait a while to overtake. I am not game to overtake unless there is a nice straight I came make sure nothing is come flying down the mountain the other direction. There is also the occasional crazy Thai driver on the wrong side of the road.
I am also not game to pull over on the side of a bend to take photos, and on the straights there is always trees blocking the view. But this was basically the view from the bike:
Too bad for the garbage.
I arrive in Pai, and spend a while trying to find a hostel with wireless. Not finding any after asking half a dozen places I settle on. Then I got get lunch, and find a place that offers wireless and has nice room. Dang. I decide to stay another day in Pai, get some practice on dirt. And I'll stay at 'TKK' so I have wireless, and a bigger room. (300 baht, fan, priv hot shower, double bed + single).
GPS Map - Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 4 - Chiang Mai to Pai on Tarmac at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day4
I follow the highway, and eventually see a sign that says Pai. It's not on my GPS, but I decide to take it anyway. It appears to be a short cut / by pass. Whatever it was it was nice smooth flat road, without a single car or bike. So I test out the top speed of the bike, and hit about 120kph.
Speaking of speed, I still have no idea what the speed limits are anywhere. I generally just go either as fast as I feel comfortable under 90kph, or at the speed of the faster cars.
Heading toward the mountains I pass a few fields and stop to take a photo.
I finally hit the twisty bits and it's fun. The roads are in good condition, there is little traffic. I am still scared about leaning the bike to far, but I take the corners faster this time. Only issue I run into is some Thai truck driver who thinks he's in America. He was driving on the wrong side of the road competely, no idea why. And he didn't try to move outta the way either. I had to quickly move over to the shoulder to avoid getting flattened. Made my heart race!
Most of the cars on the road are utes, seems to be a good choice for the local Thais. They can load their scooters in the back, and when they have to transport people they just sit in the back too. It seems like 80+% of the cars out here at utes, 10% are 4wd's and the rest are a mix. There are also a lot of expensive looking utes/4wds.
I reach a lake by the side of the road, and again stop for some photos. There are some locals fishing, just throwing a line with a hook and some meat into the lake. And some expensive looking houses on the other side of the lake.
On the mountain side of the road, there are tracks up the mountain. Dunno if they still get used, but that's some real 4wd'ing to get up there! From what I can tell, they are from trucks who were installing the power lines. (This was one of easy/tame tracks)
There are also a lot of small trails heading off to the bush, would be great to explore if you had a couple people with you. Maybe next time.
After taking the photo of the track, I realise my sandles were too close to the exhuast and have melted. Smart Rowan.
I hit the real mountainous section now, similar to the clyde (for those who live in Canberra) but a lot longer and with heaps if hairpin corners. The road is in decent (minor pot holes, bumps in the road) to very good. The road is pretty empty, although the occasional farm animal will be in the middle or on the side of the road.
I get stuck behind trucks/utes sometimes, and have to wait a while to overtake. I am not game to overtake unless there is a nice straight I came make sure nothing is come flying down the mountain the other direction. There is also the occasional crazy Thai driver on the wrong side of the road.
I am also not game to pull over on the side of a bend to take photos, and on the straights there is always trees blocking the view. But this was basically the view from the bike:
Too bad for the garbage.
I arrive in Pai, and spend a while trying to find a hostel with wireless. Not finding any after asking half a dozen places I settle on
GPS Map - Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 4 - Chiang Mai to Pai on Tarmac at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day4
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Day 3 - Mae Sa Valley
I wake up around 8am, and go get some breakfast, then start to get everything ready to be worn or packed. I also include my 3 litres of water in my CamelBak and 3 extra litres in bottles.
Today I head off road in to Mae Sa Valley following some of the dirt trails shown on the GT Rider map. I load all my gear on, not just what I need for the day, as this is a practice run for the rest of Thailand and Cambodia.
First off I head onto the 'super highway', I do about 80kph, most cars do about 70kph, with some doing anywhere from 80 to 120.
I take the turn off to Mai Sa Valley following my GPS instead of the signs, they both get me to where I want to be, but this route goes through some small towns and isn't the big highway.
Before the dirt is some amazing tarmac, great condition with heaps of really nice bends up the mountain. In fact, the best riding road I'd ever been on. Just wish I had a Triumph Street Triple or Daytona 675 with me! I take it pretty easy, as I don't know how well the KLX250 corners on tarmac, since it's designed for dirt with offroad tyres. I'm used to being able to lean until the peg hits the ground (although I pretty much always chicken out before leaning that far).
I take a right turn off the main road, and after a short time the road turns into pavement, basically the same a pavement you walk on, except just wide enough for a car. I'm no longer riding on roads that are marked on my GPS (The Garmain Thailand map) but they are on the GT-Rider map. After a quick turn up a random path to check out what was there... nothing. I come to a split in the road, and head left as it looks like the best condition.
The road turns to dirt, just as I was expecting. Still a normal road, just dirt now. After riding a while, I stop to check the GT rider map vs my GPS and find I've taken a wrong turn. I stop to think about how I am going to figure out what road is what, then realise if I map my always face north, and zoom out. The track should look almost the same as the GT-rider road. So I change the setting on my GPS, take a couple photos and head back to the split in the road.
I had along the road the right road, and it turns to dirt, excellent. I start getting more used to riding on the dirt, as I've only done it a few times on a 100cc bike of my mates. I don't have too many issues, the occasional small stretch of sand which makes the bike slide a bit and breaking hard, but other than that it's pretty straight forward.
There is burnt forest/ground everywhere, and the occasional smoking branch or burning bush. I assume it must be deliberate.
I follow the road, knowing I am going to be taking a right turn to a road that GT Rider maps states is '4wd only, wet season impassable, rough track.
I find a turn off and take it, now it's getting better, no longer a road, at least in my opinion, now a real off-road track. It's the dry season, but i don't know how a 4wd can drive along this route. Seems to small, but then the Thai's (and most South East Asians) can ride and drive anything anywhere.
The GPS is tracking perfectly, and lines up with the GT rider map until I come to a T-Section, where the rough track leads to a dirt road, but from what I can tell I shouldn't have reached the dirt road yet, still some more bends to go. So I take my chances and decide to go right.
I try to get onto my bike... problem the angle it's at I can't get my leg over!
The KLX250 is only just low enough for me to swing my legs over, but with the pack on the back I can't swing my leg over. Instead I have to do a sort of acrobatic move where I grab my own foot and lift it over. But that only works on flat ground.
So I push the bike down the slope and into the dirt road, and try again. No luck. So now I start pushing it up hill, until I reach something more flat where the bike stays in place and I can get my leg over. And off I go.
I ride along the road, and then find a right turn off. It looks like a single track (e.g. not big enough for cars [2 wheels, 2 tracks]), it goes up steep and is covered in leaves like it hasn't been used for a while. What the heck I decide, I already don't know if I am going the right way, so I turn right onto the track and go up. It's not very long but I take it pretty slow, this is the first time I've rode on anything like this, and make it up with any real issue.
When I get to the top, there is a 4 way intersection, including my single track. There is a dirt road the goes along is good condition, and one that goes straight up the hill full of ruts from 4dwd tyres. For whatever reason, that's the one I decide to take, straight up the hill and through lots of ruts, not a good combination for an inexperienced dirt biker.
I go up the path, with a couple small wobble from hitting a rut at the wrong angle, and one big wobble but I keep control. I reach the top and it's a farm of some sort, a gate, and to the right another single track.
Deciding that riding down the ruts would be hard, and that I've already gone this far I'd head up the single track and see if it leads to the top of the mountain to take some photos, and hopefully over the other side toward the town I am trying to get to.
I start up the single track and immediately find myself in trouble. It's step, and there a bushs and vines catching on the bike. I keep stalling the bike trying to make my way up slowly, and there is no way to turn the bike around. I just have to keep going up. I hit something that makes the bike go the wrong direction, I manage to correct but not before hitting a big bush and stalling the bike. It takes me a few attempts to get out of the bush, the back wheel spinning, and the bike stalling. I make it out and keep going up, looking for somewhere to turn around. As I near the top where I can turn around, the bike stalls again...
I try to start it and it doesn't start. I try again... and again... and again... nothing. I guess that the battery has gone weak from all the restarting and doesn't have enough power to kick the bike over.
Great... well I guess I have to push start it. So I put the side stand down and lean to my left with my foot out... my foot doesn't hit the ground there's a small ditch there. Just enough that the bike leans over and start to fall. I try to stop it but no luck. The bike and I go down, the bike falling on my leg... great! A bike that won't start, on it sides, in the middle of no where. I get my leg out, take my backpack, helmet and gloves off and try to lift the bike...
I try and lift, it goes up a bit, slides, and the wheel gets caught. I try again, and I can't get it up anywhere near enough. Try again and again. I can't lift it. I think about taking all my gear off the back, but I am not even getting close, and the gear only weighs about 18kg, the rest of the bike with fuel is about 130kg, and I am not getting anywhere near high enough to stand it up.
(Doesn't look so hard in the photos! Guess that's what I was thinking when I went up! Turns out looks can be deceiving)
I got up the top of the hill, where I was aiming to turn around. And rest for a bit, while I think about what I am going to do. After drinking some water, and resting. I decide to try lift it once more. No luck again. So I set out down the hill with my backpack, and stupidly still wearing my knee guards and body armour. By the time I think about how dumb it is waking in all the gear, I am too far down to walk back and take it off. So I walk down to the intersection that I originally took to get into this mess and wait. I don't have my watch with me.Dumb again. And wait for a while, I hear some bikes go past somewhere in the distance and decide to wait where I am. After a while longer I decide I'll walk down to where I took the first single track, as I had seen one other person ride past before, and thought it might be more of a main road.
I walk down the single track, find a tree to sit under and wait. I have my ipod, but decide not to use it so I can hear any bikes coming near. I did have my camera, so I took a photo, then realised I could tell the time using my camera.
Eventually 3 dirt bikers come down the road in full gear, I put my hand up, which in return they give me a wave. So I frantically try to signal them to stop before the ride past!
They stop, and the guy in front asked what's happening. I explain that I dropped my bike up the mountain, and I can't lift it up. They offer to help and I jump on the back of the leaders bike and point him in the right direct.
We go up the first single track I felt so proud doing, and he flys up it, with a pillion no less. Then I point him up the ruts, and he flys up that too. No going slow, no dodging he just accelerates up without ever needing to slow down.
We get to the farm gate, and I tell him to leave his bike here as you can't turn the bikes around up there. I walk him up to my bike, while the others are just coming up to the gate, and show him where it lays. He goes and grabs the handle bars and I'm just about to grab the rear of the bike and help him left when... wham...he lifts the bike up no problems. Damn, that is embarrassing. I know I am not strong, nor as big as this guy, but he made that look so easy, in fact it probably was so easy for him. Then one of his friends arrives, and together they turn the bike around by spinning it in place then try to start it. It doesn't start, so the leader rides the bike down the single track without power.
Once we get to the farm gates, he tries to start the bike again, and again no luck. So he rides it down the hill and 'push' starts it. Then brings it back up. He tells me he doesn't think it's the battery. Maybe it's the value clearances. My guess, it was probably flooded or something from me restarting and revving it over and over.
I asked them where they are from, two are local to Chiang Mai and one is from Bangkok.
Then they introduce themselves, the 'leader' is Mark Rossi who owns Trans Moto Sport (http://www.transmotosport.com), that explains why he was such a good rider. Unfortunately I don't recall the names of the other two.(But thanks to all of you!)
I offer to buy them a drink back in Chiang Mai, but they're not interested, probably don't want to be seen with someone dumb enough to get them self into this mess! After a few jokes at my and GT-Riders expense (GT Rider sent me up here to get new tracks for his GPS map, told me everyone goes up here, no problems). It's time to head down, I try to turn my bike around, but it keeps getting the wheels stuck in the ruts. And I am too exhausted/tired/weak to get them out, embarrassment number 2. They help me turn the bike around, and then offer to stay behind me to make sure I get down.
I take it very slowly down the rutted road, having both my feet dragging along the ground to keep me secure. I get a bit more confident, and remember you should use your rear brake, not front brake on dirt, I bring my feet up to the pegs so I can use the rear brake.
Not long after changing my riding style I hit a rut at the wrong angle, hit the rear brake and the bike comes crashing down on the right side with me underneath (the opposite side to where I dropped it, now both sides will have some damage). Embarrasment #3.
I pull my leg out, and Mark pull the bike up. Turns out going down hill, you SHOULD use the front brake, and use low gears to get the engine to brake as well. Mark tells me to leave the bike off, and the bike in gear so I can use the engine/clutch if I need to stop. I go round the corner, and down a short length is the end of the road, I had almost made it. I get down and stop.
The guys tell me which way to go to get back to a road that'll be on my GPS, and I tell them to head off as I need to put all my gear back on properly (my armour was on the outside, instead of inside of my clothes. As I had taken it off while waiting then hastily put it back on when we got the bike). I say thanks again, and they head off back down to where they had found me.
I sat down completely exhausted and decided I would head back to Chiang Mai along main roads. Not sure what would have happened had Mark and his friends not come along, I am sure I would have found some help eventually, but I am sure it would have been a lot harder to A) Get to the bike B) Get it started C) Bring it down, without them. In fact, I am almost certain had it been a local on a scooter it would have been a lot messier and I would have dropped/crashed the bike more than once.
I follow the directions Mark gave me, and sure enough it leads me back to pavement, then tarmac. Shortly after the road becomes tarmac it appears on my GPS. I key in Chiang Mai and follow the directions on the GPS, stopping a few times to take some photos.
I eventually reach Mae Sa elephant camp, and stop to take some photos from the road.
I refuse to pay to go to an elephant camp where they 'train' the elephants to do tricks and keep ,them chained up on tiny chains so they can't move. (Although I'd love to see an elephant face to face!)
Eventually I make it back to Chiang Mai and my 'Nice Apartments', competely exhaust, running low on a water (Next time I got out dirt, I'll take 10 litres), covered in sweat and feeling sore all over. I check myself out, and the only injury I have is a nice bruise on my ankle.
I have a shower then head out for dinner, find a copy of Adventure Cambodia (now I have 3 Cambodian guides books [Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and Adventure Cambodia]... hmmm) which I had looked for the day before without any luck.
I get back to my room, and crash for the night. Completely exhausted.
Lessons:
Stay on the 'main' offroads, incase something happens.
The bike can be lifted by one person, using the handle bars as leverage.
Front brakes on dirt down hill, rear break on flat/uphill.
Damage to bike:
Few light scratches, nothing serious
Damage to me:
Aching body
Couple bruises
Hurt (twisted?) ankle
Massive ego damage!
GPS Map - Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 3 - Mae Sa Valley at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day3
Today I head off road in to Mae Sa Valley following some of the dirt trails shown on the GT Rider map. I load all my gear on, not just what I need for the day, as this is a practice run for the rest of Thailand and Cambodia.
First off I head onto the 'super highway', I do about 80kph, most cars do about 70kph, with some doing anywhere from 80 to 120.
I take the turn off to Mai Sa Valley following my GPS instead of the signs, they both get me to where I want to be, but this route goes through some small towns and isn't the big highway.
Before the dirt is some amazing tarmac, great condition with heaps of really nice bends up the mountain. In fact, the best riding road I'd ever been on. Just wish I had a Triumph Street Triple or Daytona 675 with me! I take it pretty easy, as I don't know how well the KLX250 corners on tarmac, since it's designed for dirt with offroad tyres. I'm used to being able to lean until the peg hits the ground (although I pretty much always chicken out before leaning that far).
I take a right turn off the main road, and after a short time the road turns into pavement, basically the same a pavement you walk on, except just wide enough for a car. I'm no longer riding on roads that are marked on my GPS (The Garmain Thailand map) but they are on the GT-Rider map. After a quick turn up a random path to check out what was there... nothing. I come to a split in the road, and head left as it looks like the best condition.
The road turns to dirt, just as I was expecting. Still a normal road, just dirt now. After riding a while, I stop to check the GT rider map vs my GPS and find I've taken a wrong turn. I stop to think about how I am going to figure out what road is what, then realise if I map my always face north, and zoom out. The track should look almost the same as the GT-rider road. So I change the setting on my GPS, take a couple photos and head back to the split in the road.
I had along the road the right road, and it turns to dirt, excellent. I start getting more used to riding on the dirt, as I've only done it a few times on a 100cc bike of my mates. I don't have too many issues, the occasional small stretch of sand which makes the bike slide a bit and breaking hard, but other than that it's pretty straight forward.
There is burnt forest/ground everywhere, and the occasional smoking branch or burning bush. I assume it must be deliberate.
I follow the road, knowing I am going to be taking a right turn to a road that GT Rider maps states is '4wd only, wet season impassable, rough track.
I find a turn off and take it, now it's getting better, no longer a road, at least in my opinion, now a real off-road track. It's the dry season, but i don't know how a 4wd can drive along this route. Seems to small, but then the Thai's (and most South East Asians) can ride and drive anything anywhere.
The GPS is tracking perfectly, and lines up with the GT rider map until I come to a T-Section, where the rough track leads to a dirt road, but from what I can tell I shouldn't have reached the dirt road yet, still some more bends to go. So I take my chances and decide to go right.
I try to get onto my bike... problem the angle it's at I can't get my leg over!
The KLX250 is only just low enough for me to swing my legs over, but with the pack on the back I can't swing my leg over. Instead I have to do a sort of acrobatic move where I grab my own foot and lift it over. But that only works on flat ground.
So I push the bike down the slope and into the dirt road, and try again. No luck. So now I start pushing it up hill, until I reach something more flat where the bike stays in place and I can get my leg over. And off I go.
I ride along the road, and then find a right turn off. It looks like a single track (e.g. not big enough for cars [2 wheels, 2 tracks]), it goes up steep and is covered in leaves like it hasn't been used for a while. What the heck I decide, I already don't know if I am going the right way, so I turn right onto the track and go up. It's not very long but I take it pretty slow, this is the first time I've rode on anything like this, and make it up with any real issue.
When I get to the top, there is a 4 way intersection, including my single track. There is a dirt road the goes along is good condition, and one that goes straight up the hill full of ruts from 4dwd tyres. For whatever reason, that's the one I decide to take, straight up the hill and through lots of ruts, not a good combination for an inexperienced dirt biker.
I go up the path, with a couple small wobble from hitting a rut at the wrong angle, and one big wobble but I keep control. I reach the top and it's a farm of some sort, a gate, and to the right another single track.
Deciding that riding down the ruts would be hard, and that I've already gone this far I'd head up the single track and see if it leads to the top of the mountain to take some photos, and hopefully over the other side toward the town I am trying to get to.
I start up the single track and immediately find myself in trouble. It's step, and there a bushs and vines catching on the bike. I keep stalling the bike trying to make my way up slowly, and there is no way to turn the bike around. I just have to keep going up. I hit something that makes the bike go the wrong direction, I manage to correct but not before hitting a big bush and stalling the bike. It takes me a few attempts to get out of the bush, the back wheel spinning, and the bike stalling. I make it out and keep going up, looking for somewhere to turn around. As I near the top where I can turn around, the bike stalls again...
I try to start it and it doesn't start. I try again... and again... and again... nothing. I guess that the battery has gone weak from all the restarting and doesn't have enough power to kick the bike over.
Great... well I guess I have to push start it. So I put the side stand down and lean to my left with my foot out... my foot doesn't hit the ground there's a small ditch there. Just enough that the bike leans over and start to fall. I try to stop it but no luck. The bike and I go down, the bike falling on my leg... great! A bike that won't start, on it sides, in the middle of no where. I get my leg out, take my backpack, helmet and gloves off and try to lift the bike...
I try and lift, it goes up a bit, slides, and the wheel gets caught. I try again, and I can't get it up anywhere near enough. Try again and again. I can't lift it. I think about taking all my gear off the back, but I am not even getting close, and the gear only weighs about 18kg, the rest of the bike with fuel is about 130kg, and I am not getting anywhere near high enough to stand it up.
(Doesn't look so hard in the photos! Guess that's what I was thinking when I went up! Turns out looks can be deceiving)
I got up the top of the hill, where I was aiming to turn around. And rest for a bit, while I think about what I am going to do. After drinking some water, and resting. I decide to try lift it once more. No luck again. So I set out down the hill with my backpack, and stupidly still wearing my knee guards and body armour. By the time I think about how dumb it is waking in all the gear, I am too far down to walk back and take it off. So I walk down to the intersection that I originally took to get into this mess and wait. I don't have my watch with me.Dumb again. And wait for a while, I hear some bikes go past somewhere in the distance and decide to wait where I am. After a while longer I decide I'll walk down to where I took the first single track, as I had seen one other person ride past before, and thought it might be more of a main road.
I walk down the single track, find a tree to sit under and wait. I have my ipod, but decide not to use it so I can hear any bikes coming near. I did have my camera, so I took a photo, then realised I could tell the time using my camera.
Eventually 3 dirt bikers come down the road in full gear, I put my hand up, which in return they give me a wave. So I frantically try to signal them to stop before the ride past!
They stop, and the guy in front asked what's happening. I explain that I dropped my bike up the mountain, and I can't lift it up. They offer to help and I jump on the back of the leaders bike and point him in the right direct.
We go up the first single track I felt so proud doing, and he flys up it, with a pillion no less. Then I point him up the ruts, and he flys up that too. No going slow, no dodging he just accelerates up without ever needing to slow down.
We get to the farm gate, and I tell him to leave his bike here as you can't turn the bikes around up there. I walk him up to my bike, while the others are just coming up to the gate, and show him where it lays. He goes and grabs the handle bars and I'm just about to grab the rear of the bike and help him left when... wham...he lifts the bike up no problems. Damn, that is embarrassing. I know I am not strong, nor as big as this guy, but he made that look so easy, in fact it probably was so easy for him. Then one of his friends arrives, and together they turn the bike around by spinning it in place then try to start it. It doesn't start, so the leader rides the bike down the single track without power.
Once we get to the farm gates, he tries to start the bike again, and again no luck. So he rides it down the hill and 'push' starts it. Then brings it back up. He tells me he doesn't think it's the battery. Maybe it's the value clearances. My guess, it was probably flooded or something from me restarting and revving it over and over.
I asked them where they are from, two are local to Chiang Mai and one is from Bangkok.
Then they introduce themselves, the 'leader' is Mark Rossi who owns Trans Moto Sport (http://www.transmotosport.com), that explains why he was such a good rider. Unfortunately I don't recall the names of the other two.(But thanks to all of you!)
I offer to buy them a drink back in Chiang Mai, but they're not interested, probably don't want to be seen with someone dumb enough to get them self into this mess! After a few jokes at my and GT-Riders expense (GT Rider sent me up here to get new tracks for his GPS map, told me everyone goes up here, no problems). It's time to head down, I try to turn my bike around, but it keeps getting the wheels stuck in the ruts. And I am too exhausted/tired/weak to get them out, embarrassment number 2. They help me turn the bike around, and then offer to stay behind me to make sure I get down.
I take it very slowly down the rutted road, having both my feet dragging along the ground to keep me secure. I get a bit more confident, and remember you should use your rear brake, not front brake on dirt, I bring my feet up to the pegs so I can use the rear brake.
Not long after changing my riding style I hit a rut at the wrong angle, hit the rear brake and the bike comes crashing down on the right side with me underneath (the opposite side to where I dropped it, now both sides will have some damage). Embarrasment #3.
I pull my leg out, and Mark pull the bike up. Turns out going down hill, you SHOULD use the front brake, and use low gears to get the engine to brake as well. Mark tells me to leave the bike off, and the bike in gear so I can use the engine/clutch if I need to stop. I go round the corner, and down a short length is the end of the road, I had almost made it. I get down and stop.
The guys tell me which way to go to get back to a road that'll be on my GPS, and I tell them to head off as I need to put all my gear back on properly (my armour was on the outside, instead of inside of my clothes. As I had taken it off while waiting then hastily put it back on when we got the bike). I say thanks again, and they head off back down to where they had found me.
I sat down completely exhausted and decided I would head back to Chiang Mai along main roads. Not sure what would have happened had Mark and his friends not come along, I am sure I would have found some help eventually, but I am sure it would have been a lot harder to A) Get to the bike B) Get it started C) Bring it down, without them. In fact, I am almost certain had it been a local on a scooter it would have been a lot messier and I would have dropped/crashed the bike more than once.
I follow the directions Mark gave me, and sure enough it leads me back to pavement, then tarmac. Shortly after the road becomes tarmac it appears on my GPS. I key in Chiang Mai and follow the directions on the GPS, stopping a few times to take some photos.
I eventually reach Mae Sa elephant camp, and stop to take some photos from the road.
I refuse to pay to go to an elephant camp where they 'train' the elephants to do tricks and keep ,them chained up on tiny chains so they can't move. (Although I'd love to see an elephant face to face!)
Eventually I make it back to Chiang Mai and my 'Nice Apartments', competely exhaust, running low on a water (Next time I got out dirt, I'll take 10 litres), covered in sweat and feeling sore all over. I check myself out, and the only injury I have is a nice bruise on my ankle.
I have a shower then head out for dinner, find a copy of Adventure Cambodia (now I have 3 Cambodian guides books [Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and Adventure Cambodia]... hmmm) which I had looked for the day before without any luck.
I get back to my room, and crash for the night. Completely exhausted.
Lessons:
Stay on the 'main' offroads, incase something happens.
The bike can be lifted by one person, using the handle bars as leverage.
Front brakes on dirt down hill, rear break on flat/uphill.
Damage to bike:
Few light scratches, nothing serious
Damage to me:
Aching body
Couple bruises
Hurt (twisted?) ankle
Massive ego damage!
GPS Map - Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 3 - Mae Sa Valley at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day3
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Day 2 - Around Chiang Mai
I wake up at 4:50, having not received my requested wakeup call. Quickly pack everything and rush to a taxi to the airport.
Get to airport at 5:15, wait in line till about 6am just before check in closes.
Go through security, and they stop me and search my bags. I am carrying all my tools to keep weight out of my checked bag (allowance 15kg, my bag 15.4kg).
Once they are finished searching my bag, I rush to the gate... and it's completely empty. Check the time, it's 6:05, boarding doesn't start for another 5 minutes. Where is everyone?
10 minutes later a Thai women turn up, and informs me that it's not 6:15, it's 5:15. I had my watch set wrong! Missed out on another hours sleep, god damn it!
------------
Arrived in Chiang Mai, I decide to be el cheapo and skip on the taxi and get a bus instead, according to rough guide #10 goes where I want, comes by every 15 minutes and costs 10baht vs. 120 baht for a taxi. After waiting about 25 minutes with no sign of the bus, and telling many tuk tuk and taxi drivers I wasn't interested. A guy in a taxi/ute pulls up and tells me the buses 'may come, may not, never know' and he'll take me to where I want to go for 20baht, I hop in. He takes me straight to the hotel, and we talk about bikes, children dying on scooters because they don't wear helmets (Legal age to ride is 16 for boys, 18 for girls. But everyone rides no matter what age. 'Not my problem' is what police think, according to the taxi driver), and about the Thai Airforce where he said he used to serve.I give him 40baht for his troubles, a lot cheaper than a meter taxi.
After checking into 'Nice Apartments' (300baht for per night, 2nights. Aircon, priv bathroom). I head on a a unsuccessful walk around to find an elephant rehabilitation centre ticket office that I found on the net. I then decide to go check out Mr Mechanic to hire a scooter for the day (100 baht, $5 AUD), and ask them if I can see the XR250 later tonight.
I head off to a 'must see' temple with my newly attached GPS (Garmin GPS60Cx), the temple I ended up was nice, but nothing must see.
Later I found out I went to the wrong one, oh well.
Next I head to Kafe, the hang out of GT Rider and his friends. No one is there though, so I grab a quick lunch and put my new destination in the GPS, Wiang Kum Kam.
Wiang Kum Kam is the ruins of an ancient city, considered the prototype of Chiang Mai. It's basically the ruins of temples built between 1250 and 1750, most of them closer to 1750.
The majority are just the the floors, although there are some that have been rebuilt/repair closer to what they would have originally looked like.
After this I head back to Mr Mechanic and try out there XR250, followed by a KLX250 which is quite a lot newer and has 10,000k on it vs. 50,000 on the XR250. I settle on the KLX despite the extra 100baht per day ($5 AUD) and pay an extra 100 baht for insurance that covers damaged to my bike and other peoples vehicles. Total 800 baht per day for 10 days, 8000 baht ($400AUD).
After this I head to the night market, buy some light weight pants, go get some dinner, then head back to the hotel to do some planning and get some sleep for tomorrow.
GPS Map Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 2 - Exploring Chiang Mai at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today : http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day2
Get to airport at 5:15, wait in line till about 6am just before check in closes.
Go through security, and they stop me and search my bags. I am carrying all my tools to keep weight out of my checked bag (allowance 15kg, my bag 15.4kg).
Once they are finished searching my bag, I rush to the gate... and it's completely empty. Check the time, it's 6:05, boarding doesn't start for another 5 minutes. Where is everyone?
10 minutes later a Thai women turn up, and informs me that it's not 6:15, it's 5:15. I had my watch set wrong! Missed out on another hours sleep, god damn it!
------------
Arrived in Chiang Mai, I decide to be el cheapo and skip on the taxi and get a bus instead, according to rough guide #10 goes where I want, comes by every 15 minutes and costs 10baht vs. 120 baht for a taxi. After waiting about 25 minutes with no sign of the bus, and telling many tuk tuk and taxi drivers I wasn't interested. A guy in a taxi/ute pulls up and tells me the buses 'may come, may not, never know' and he'll take me to where I want to go for 20baht, I hop in. He takes me straight to the hotel, and we talk about bikes, children dying on scooters because they don't wear helmets (Legal age to ride is 16 for boys, 18 for girls. But everyone rides no matter what age. 'Not my problem' is what police think, according to the taxi driver), and about the Thai Airforce where he said he used to serve.I give him 40baht for his troubles, a lot cheaper than a meter taxi.
After checking into 'Nice Apartments' (300baht for per night, 2nights. Aircon, priv bathroom). I head on a a unsuccessful walk around to find an elephant rehabilitation centre ticket office that I found on the net. I then decide to go check out Mr Mechanic to hire a scooter for the day (100 baht, $5 AUD), and ask them if I can see the XR250 later tonight.
I head off to a 'must see' temple with my newly attached GPS (Garmin GPS60Cx), the temple I ended up was nice, but nothing must see.
Later I found out I went to the wrong one, oh well.
Next I head to Kafe, the hang out of GT Rider and his friends. No one is there though, so I grab a quick lunch and put my new destination in the GPS, Wiang Kum Kam.
Wiang Kum Kam is the ruins of an ancient city, considered the prototype of Chiang Mai. It's basically the ruins of temples built between 1250 and 1750, most of them closer to 1750.
The majority are just the the floors, although there are some that have been rebuilt/repair closer to what they would have originally looked like.
After this I head back to Mr Mechanic and try out there XR250, followed by a KLX250 which is quite a lot newer and has 10,000k on it vs. 50,000 on the XR250. I settle on the KLX despite the extra 100baht per day ($5 AUD) and pay an extra 100 baht for insurance that covers damaged to my bike and other peoples vehicles. Total 800 baht per day for 10 days, 8000 baht ($400AUD).
After this I head to the night market, buy some light weight pants, go get some dinner, then head back to the hotel to do some planning and get some sleep for tomorrow.
GPS Map Click the circles to see images. Click the link to see all GPS details and photos:
Day 2 - Exploring Chiang Mai at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today : http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day2
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