But after my first attempt on dirt, I decide to delay that trip and instead get some more experience on dirt. So I had a look at GT Map and decided to try head to Mae Laep, South West of Pai. This time with only my CamelBak and a small day pack with water, tools and a first aid kit.
I turn on the road marks on the GT Rider map, which shows only one road from here to the village. It quickly proves there a number of roads that all look equal in quality. I head left at one of the intersections, and end up at a dead end.
I turn back and take the right road this time, and end up at lake marked on the Pai Environs part of the GT rider map.
Two guys ride past with rifles, and turn up a small track.
I keep going past the lake to see where it will take me. The road forks, I go left. The road/tracks end at a hut, after going over some trickling streams.
The all over the place in the country,I assume that it's for people to rest under when they have been working in the fields/farms/etc.
I look around a find two ways to go, one goes down steeply into the creek then up the other side steeply but with big rocks in the way. I decide to skip that. The other way to follow is a single track into the forrest. I follow that about 30 meters before it becomes steep without anywhere to turn around. After my last attempt at something similar I decide to turn the bike around and head back.
I follow the track back to where I had chosen to go left, and go right this time.
It ends at another hut, this time I park the bike under, and take a short break.
Now I head back, and this time head to the lake. There are about 10 people fishing, some boats that look like foot paddle boats for tourists and a small stall. I take some photos, buy some chips which I don't like so the lucky limping dog gets them. Then decide to head back toward Pai and go somewhere else instead.
I stop at a petrol station. My riding on dirt is getting better, I am getting more confident(again) and taking things faster. From what I've read, it's often better to go faster than you think. Being a bike on two wheels, the faster you go, the more stable the bike.
I decide to try checkout a waterfall called Mae Yen marked on the GT map. There is no road marked to the waterfall, so I just ride to where the road on the map ends, then keep riding. I cross a few more streams, these are about 2 meters wide and 5-10 centimeters deep. First time I've ridden through water, and it's a bit of fun. Having the water splash up and wet my boots/legs.
I reach an area where there is a bambo bridge, under the bridge is about a 4 meter drop. I walk onto and over the bridge and it creeks and sinks a bit.
I decide not to ride the bike over it, and look for another way up. I find a way up, but going down would be a balancing act with no where to put my feet down should I slip as stream on the right side, and bush on the left. I decide it'd be a bad idea to try ride, and I am not really going anywhere. So I turn around and head back.
This time I head to Tha Pai hotsprings. It's pavement the entire way.
As I head out to Tha Pai I pass a bunch of elephant camps. The elephants are on the side of the road, chained up so they can only take a few steps.
I stop to take a photo of the elephant camp recommended by the rough guide.
Personally it amounts to torture in my opinion, and we should not be encouraging it, it's just wrong. What would westerners think if in Australia, we locked up kangaroos in a tiny cage, and the only time they could come out is when an Asian tourist came to feed it, and maybe 'walk' it around for 30minutes. We shouldn't be doing this to wild animals, they are used to roaming. Locking them up, is fucked up.
While I am on the topic of Westerners encouraging bad behaviour...
If you were in a western country (bar the USA) it's required by law that you where a helmet, why? Because if you're involved in an accident it saves your life. So why is it when Westerner's come to Asia, suddenly they think it's ok to ride without a helmet. I have seen hundreds of Westerner's on scooters, and can count on one hand the amount wearing helmets.
Yes most of the locals don't wear helmets, but that doesn't mean westerners shouldn't wear helmets, almost all rental places will give you a free helmet.
Motorcycle accidents are a major cause of death for SE Asians, and when kids see westerners not wearing helmets, it encourages them not to wear helmets either. Not to mention how many tourist die or a seriously injured in accidents in SEA. Wear a helmet people! Its not hard, you don't even have to take it with you, just leave it on the bike when you park!
And yes, as a very minimum I have my helmet and gloves on, even if I am just riding 500 meters down the street. If it's not worth the effort of putting on the gear, then walk!
Back on topic. I reach the hot springs, and it looks boring. I though there was meant to be a gaiser but I don't see any evidence of one. So again I choose a new destination.
This time I had to Mo Paeng waterfall, I find the road in the GPS. Hit 'goto' and set off.
The waterfall is nice, with a pool at the bottom. But being dry season, these isn't much flow. There are many thai's at the waterfall, there is one group of 4 westerners sitting at the waters edge. Some of the teens are sliding down the rock face and into the water. I decide, what the heck when in rome. Plus my motocross pants are meant to be able to survive sliding down tarmac. So I take off everything except the MX pants, and head up to where the kids are.
None of the kids speak any English, or at least wont say anything to me. I say a few things in English and make some hand signals. A couple of them point at me, and then down the rock face. So I get in line, and slide down. Fun!
I climb back up, and get mainly un-interested teens with 2 of them giving me the thumbs up. I try to talk to them more, but they aren't interested. I have another go. Climb back up, and try one last time to talk to them. But again they're not interested. So un-interested in fact, they get up and leave. Great! I scared them away. So much for the land of the golden smile.
Althought I have a theory. It is the off-season and Pai already had more westerners than Thai. I overheard a ex-pat say that about 15% of the rooms are taken at the moment and during peak season you have to book ahead. So the place would be packed to the brim with westerners. These kids probably want to get away from tourists, not have them come and join in!
I go down a final time, then lay on the rocks to dry myself out.
Now I choose a new place to go, I decide to check out the route I am going to go tomorrow. I look in my GPS, and surprisingly find what appears to be the start of the road I want to head down. I hit 'goto' and set off.
I reach the dirt road, and follow it along. I'm getting more confident, and sliding the tail around a little. Feels awesome, can't do that on a street bike. I'm getting good with my speed going on flats and going up hill. But I am still worried when going down hill that if I got fast I'll hit a corner at the end, and either A) Go off the track B)Hit the brakes too hard and slide C) Have to corner too hard and the bike slides out.
I reach the end of the road. Straight in a thin single track with a drop on the right hand side. On the right there is a little bride made out of a few logs over a 1m high stream. I ride over the bridge, and go down a petty steep and slippy down hill. And end up at the Pai river.
There is no road across the river, or on the other side. Although I am sure a better ride could ride across but since there is nothing over there as far as I can. I stop to take a photo and look at the map. The GPS says I am in the right place, and the road keeps going. Not as far as I can tell.
Some Thai's in hammocks under some trees call out in English. I take them over the map and try explain where I am trying to get, and they point me back the direction I came from.
I am not game to try the single track, incase I slip to the right and the bike gets stuck a meter into the ground. So I head back up to the little bridge. I got up the steep bank, that is sandy and rock and the back wheels kicks up a lot of dust. I get near the top and get stuck as the bike isn't in line for the bridge, and I can't really go backward and it's way too steep to go backward. So I wrester the bike, sliding back a bit, then revving the engine and going forward with dirt going everywhere. Eventually I get it lined up and get across. When I cross I can see the Thai's are on the way over. To help at the guy on the big dirt bike, without the MX gear who can't cross a silly bridge. I give them the thumbs up and head off.
I take another direction on the dirt road, that gets me across the other side of the Pai river, but it just ends at a gate to a farm. So I decide to head back to Pai passing green fields on the way.
You get a lot of looks being dressed up like I am. While 80% of Thais have no helmet, and 99% of Westerners. When I ride past one on a 250cc Dirt bike, wearing knee armour, body armour, helmet, goggles, gloves and MX top and pants on a paved road. I am sure they must think this is something wrong with me! Although when they end up with serious injuries in hospital, while all I have in a tear in my top and needing a new helmet, they may change there minds.
I arrive to my new hostel at TTK and am greeted by a new friend in my room.
I take a walk around town, buy some supplies, have dinner, go to the net cafe, do some writing up and get to bed at midnight. Tomorrow is a big day trying to get to Sappong via dirt. But this time I'll stick to the main trails and if I feel it's getting too hard I'll turn around and head back to Pai. Going on the highway to Sappong will take no time at all.
GPS Map - Click the link to see in the map in full, and see where photos were taken:
Day 5 - Around Pai on Dirt at EveryTrail
Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging
See all photos for today: http://picasaweb.google.com/envyme/Day5#
